Does My Trick Truck Need a tune-up?

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  • #10580
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    Ok Ford mechanics…I checked the Maintenance History on my 93 F-150 “big 6′. No tune-up (plugs -etc ) for 3 years .Owners manual no help…way over thier milage recomendations. It’s got 224499 miles. Do regular Oil changes and air filter stuff. Wondering about injectors and anything else. Runs great ,don’t want any surprises.

    #27668
    don-kauer
    • Total Posts: 1178

    Change the plugs and the fuel filter……..Add some Lucas Injector fuel additive…….Check cap, rotor and wires 😀

    #27670
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    got It. Thanks…..Got a good guy down here that I trust .Glad Its not Major.Oh-why Lucas…? went to Auto Zone and there’s like twenty differant brands.

    #27675
    babycakes
    Participant
    • Total Posts: 2156

    Dino,I fully agree with Don however(don’t know if there original with present mileage) I’d check the water pump for looseness,check drive belts,replace thermostat to be on the ‘safe’ side.Don’t have to worry about a timing chain,the 300 cu. in. is ‘gear’ driven.There a ‘tuff’ engine!

    #27676
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    I see what ya mean…No- Plugs were changed …way back maybe 100 thou or so. Nobody ever fills out maintenance book …so I’ll dig into old invoices and find out.

    #27677
    don-kauer
    • Total Posts: 1178
    quote Babycakes:

    Dino,I fully agree with Don however(don’t know if there original with present mileage) I’d check the water pump for looseness,check drive belts,replace thermostat to be on the ‘safe’ side.Don’t have to worry about a timing chain,the 300 cu. in. is ‘gear’ driven.There a ‘tuff’ engine!

    Great motor………..Just ask Frenchie…………….. 😀 😀

    #27680
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    Huh? never thought of that ….SPEED PARTS for the Trick Truck! 😯 …Clem has mucho extras all over his garage …”Hello Clem …Dino,what ya got in say …carbs,4-speed, cams ???”

    #27792
    mikey
    • Total Posts: 1399

    Dino, I think that you could solve all your vehicular troubles if you just lift up the wipers, and slide a new truck under them!!
    ……………..Mikey 😮 😯 😈 😈

    #27794
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    Don’t have problems …just want to prevent future ones …”preventative maintenance” thing just runs great …had it for 16 years. will never find another vehical seat hat fits my butt this good.”Ive made a lasting impression with it” 😆

    #36899
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    Getting up there in Mileage…now have a rear main leak again…..Heres some ‘Mechanic Quotes:
    “If you fix the leak,with that kind of mileage(Blow-by), it will just blow out,someplace else”
    “With the Cost of changing the seal ,pulling the trans., why not just rebuild the engine”
    “Don’t rebuild it …buy a ‘reconditioned engine”
    “We get our reconditioned engines from Advance Auto Parts”
    “Advance gets them from ‘RECON” I think”

    ………….My Spin:
    Why not Deal direct with Recon and cut out two middle men( Advance and the “installer’ …”Heres the new engine-put it in”
    Or?…is RECON the best?…DRAKE …where do I get a “Big Six” at a decent direct buy price?. Can go get it ,save shipping…. and put it in the bed,If Close By.

    #36903
    babycakes
    Participant
    • Total Posts: 2156

    Dino,if it were me,I’d buy a ‘rebuilt’,right from Ford parts dept.A little more expensive then the other major automotive supply stores,however,through word of mouth,and experience,when it comes to a ‘no-hassle’ policy,Ford rebuilt engines stood above the rest for dependability,and honored there warranty 100%,should a problem occur.Note: You should get a ‘business’ discount on the engine,with your commercial lettering business! Worth asking for! That’s my 2 cents,Pete.

    #36904
    mikey
    • Total Posts: 1399

    Dino, if it were me, I would price some different outlets for rebuilt/reman engines. You will also need a core to give them(your old engine). You also have a choice,or options on what type engine you want. Long block, short block(use your cyl. head), or complete engine. I would also pull the radiator out , and send it for a good cleaning unless it’s fairly new. Think about a set of headers too, better fuel economy and performance, with a dual exhaust system of course. If you decide to rebuild your engine, you will probably need to bore it, maybe .030 because of the wear. Valve job, surface cut the head, send the crank out for polishing, or turning, it depends what shape it’s in. If you have the skill, tools, and space, you can save money by doing it yourself. Get prices on all the machine-work and parts, then compare everything and make a choice. See how easy that was ?? ………………Mikey 😮 😯 😆

    #36906
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    Figured the ‘Bossguy” and Drake would have some Ideas….Thanks for all the input…we’ll see what some more say. Not doing this tomorrow,but just needed some ‘second opinions”.Good stuff so far !

    #36907
    patina
    Participant
    • Total Posts: 2206

    You want a second opinion, well I 2nd what “Cakes” said. Pick up a long block pay the core charge, swap things out, bring core back get your core charge back. Your not going to save any money (really) rebuilding motor yourself and think about the down time. John Gunn would change radiators every 100K and never had a problem. New ones are cheaper than a cleanout (which never gets 100% clean). Between me and “Cakes” that makes .04 cents get enough of opinions you’ll be able to buy a new truck 😆 😆 😆

    Pat

    #36909
    dino
    Keymaster
    • Total Posts: 11508

    Ah-So…. Getting the plan now….have a “Ford” connection…and someone to swap, at way cheaper than dealer service dept. labor rates….Goes like this ..I dive the truck up to Dover Fest….38 Dover Mechanics pull off a ‘overhaulin’ in 5 hours and I buy the keg. 😆

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